Einleitung
Benutze diese Anleitung, um die linke Schultertaste (L1) in deinem Steam Deck LCD zu ersetzen.
Achte während der Reparatur auf allgemeine Vorsichtsmaßnahmen zur Vermeidung von elektrostatischen Entladungen (ESD = engl. electrostatic discharge).
Was du brauchst
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Schalte das Steam Deck komplett aus und ziehe alle Stecker ab.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:FixMat$36.95
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Entferne die acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Rückabdeckung befestigt ist:
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Vier 9,5 mm lange Schrauben mit Grobgewinde
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Vier 5,8 mm lange Schrauben mit Feingewinde
there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step
I agree, I just broke mine...
What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.
I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.
Mark D -
I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)
I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.
I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.
Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.
The screw bit that came with my fix kit just stripped the screws of my steam deck. I guess I should've just sent it in...
Model 1030 SteamDeck uses Torque #6 (CR-V T6) 5.0mm for all 8 screws making it far less likely to damage the screw heads.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Setze ein Plektrum in die schmale Fuge zwischen Rückabdeckung und Vorderschale an der Kante des rechten Griffs ein.
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Heble die Rückabdeckung hoch, um sie aus den Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.
I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.
second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side
Sub -
I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier
Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged
Luis B -
this as suggested above:
1. open the top
2. open the bottom
3.gently open the sides
I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.
It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.
plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open
This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.
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Fasse die Rückabdeckung an der Öffnung, die du gerade erstellt hast, und ziehe sie nach oben vom Gerät weg, um die Clips an den langen Kanten zu lösen.
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Entferne die Rückabdeckung.
If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.
you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed
You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Entferne mithilfe einer Pinzette das Stück Klebefolie auf der versteckten Schraube auf der Platinenabschirmung.
Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.
If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.
Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.
You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air
I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...
wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?
If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?
I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?
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Benutze einen Schraubendreher, um die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Abschirmung der Platine befestigt ist:
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Eine 3,4 mm Schraube
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Zwei 3,7 mm Schrauben
The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.
Any updates? Did they let you RMA?
I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D
Andy HL -
I'm stuck in the same place. I haven't fully stripped it, but I can tell you that if I try and make it budge it will strip. The thing is massively overtightened. The driver fit fine, the metal just gives way before the screw will budge.
I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.
I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.
What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?
if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?
have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck
briaNN -
button Not key, i’m sorry
FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.
For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.
Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.
Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.
Simon M. -
There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.
I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?
Hi, is it possible to buy these shields somewhere? I am extremely interested in buying a replacement.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Entferne die Abschirmung der Platine.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.
Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?
Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro
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Fasse das Akkukabel an seiner Zuglasche und ziehe es vom Motherboard weg, um es abzutrennen.
After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!
Awesome thanks for this tip!
It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.
This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...
This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.
Victor -
I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.
Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).
skzm -
I second this approach. For me, the cable felt way to flimsy and the connector wouldn't budge even under moderate force. Except I used the flat end of a spudger to "scrape" it out.
Misza -
Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.
When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable
This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.
Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?
Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.
Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.
I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.
Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.
This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently
I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?
What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!
Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.
To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.
Does it have to be a clean fingernail?
I disagree with the order here: I think the battery should be disconnected right after step 4. You can do that before touching anything else by gently pulling the pull tab to the right.
If all you want to do is to disconnect and reconnect your battery (because your Steam Deck is not booting up... again...) then with a bit of finesse, luck and a flat plastic tool you can even push it back in without removing the shield. Make sure it went all the way back in.
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Setze das flache Ende eines Spudgers auf die Innenkante des linken Clips des Triggers.
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Klappe den Trigger-Clip heraus, und aus dem Stift nach oben heraus, um ihn zu lösen.
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Entferne den linken Trigger.
In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.
Omg thank you
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Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die drei 5,2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die linke Trigger-Halterung befestigt ist.
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Entferne die linke Trigger-Halterung.
If I only need to get to this part to check if I have to change the button or the daughterboard, do I HAVE to disconnect the battery ? The less I fiddle with things the more likely it is that I won’t break anything else…
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um den kleinen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Analogstick-Kabels anzuheben.
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Schiebe das Kabel mithilfe einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss.
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Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die drei 5,2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen der Analogstick befestigt ist.
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Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um den kleinen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Verbindungskabels zur Tastenplatine hochzuheben.
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Schiebe das Kabel mit einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss.
Interconnect cable is along bottom of left board (on your right hand side). Ought to put a picture of where it is for easier reference.
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Es kann sein, dass manche Stecker mit Klebeband bedeckt sind. Entferne es mit einer Pinzette.
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Benutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um die kleinen Sicherungsbügel an den restlichen ZIF-Verbindern der Tastenplatine hochzuheben. Schiebe die Kabel mit einer Pinzette aus ihren Anschlüssen:
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Trenne das Kabel des Steuerkreuzes (D-Pad) ab.
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Trenne das Kabel der Touchpad-Platine ab.
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Trenne das Touchpad-Kabel ab.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um das Kabel der Haptik anzuheben und abzutrennen.
Any advice on resoldering a disconnected haptics connector housing?
If you dont accidently launch the housing some where you cant find it
Jimbo -
Der Stecker steckte fester im Gehäuse als das Gehäuse auf der Platine... Eine Idee, wie das in Ordnung gebracht werden kann?
Broke the housing in half, still usable though. This was while only prying the connector, which stretched the housing too much. I highly recommend the flipping over the edge alternative :)
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Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die vier Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die linke Tastenplatine befestigt ist:
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Drei 5,2 mm Schrauben
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Eine 3,9 mm Schraube
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Entferne die linke Tastenplatine.
This is useful, but how do I get a Left Button Board? Mine is damaged in the left bumper button micro switch and I need a replacement.
i thought i needed to replace L1 but i need to replace daughter board too. Valve has said they will supply left daughter boards they are just sold out rn
B P -
Same, i replaced the assembly for nothing, its the board that needs to be replaced, since i cant solder at all and its the blue button that is faulty
Where can I purchase a board
I need this board to fix my deck
que precio tiene esta pieza, se daño la de mi steam deck
when will the button board be for sale?
L4 button not worked. When will the button board be for sale?
Will a button board be available for purchase soon?
Please provide daughter board, l1 button stopped working. Pads lifted off the board.
Will a button board be available for purchase soon?
Also need a button board....
Guys, I have the same problem as everyone else. The STEAM button stopped working almost immediately after purchase, Steam actually refused the warranty - they offered me to bring the console myself to the other side of the world, although they could have simply sent a replacement part or a new one. You can’t buy spare parts anywhere - they simply weren’t made “in reserve.” As a result, I have a dead, useless console for a lot of money. No trust in Valve now. I'm thinking of filing a class action lawsuit against the company. Maybe we can get together? I'm @paaladin on social networks and Steam.Where can I buy this board? If this board isn't available, what else could I do to fix the L1 button switch?
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Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die beiden 5,2 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die linke Schultertasten-Einheit befestigt ist.
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Entferne die linke Schultertasten-Einheit.
When reassembling, you may need to force the bumper in a bit until you hear it click.
When I was first reassembling it, I had difficulty screwing the button boards back in. Additionally, my bumper and dpad felt like they were not sitting correctly, when fully reassembled. I believe this was because I didn't fully push in the left bumper assembly even though it looked like it was sitting in place correctly.
During reassembly, align the lower right corner first. This protruding part on the right side must go under the clip of the shell.
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Hebe die Schultertaste hoch und weg von der Halterung, um den obersten Kunststoffclip zu lösen.
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Löse die restlichen Kunststoffclips ab, um die Schultertaste zu entfernen.
The replacement "Left Bumper Button" part (IF260-016-1) contains the assembly shown in step 22 - the button itself, spring, and plastic bracket it is attached to. The part does not include the daughter board that attaches to the rear face of the plastic bracket, which has the contacts for the d-pad and associated ribbon cable. This is correctly noted on the replacement parts page, and is not a surprise.
What is worth noting here is that the daughter board is a very thin, flexible substrate (~thickness of an index card), and is attached to the rear face of the plastic bracket with adhesive or glue. If only the button itself (and/or spring) replacement is needed, this is not an issue, as the NEW button/spring assembly may be removed from the NEW bracket (which has no daughter board) and attached to the OLD bracket that has the daughter board glued on.
If the bracket itself is broken/damaged, then there are missing steps, as the daughter board would have to be removed/re-glued to the new rear of the bracket.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Versuche es mit einigen grundsätzlichen Lösungsansätzen, ansonsten findest du in unserem Steam Deck Forum Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Versuche es mit einigen grundsätzlichen Lösungsansätzen, ansonsten findest du in unserem Steam Deck Forum Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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15 Kommentare zur Anleitung
All good! but you are missing the last step as you will need to replace the Dpad contacts and place them on the new bumper.
This part is not available in Canada, I've seen your product advertised all over the tech industry, but this part is not available to ship to Canada, that's too bad, I would have purchased the repair kit along with this part, I guess I'm stuck with the rma process. I guess right to repair is still very broken.
Just so others are aware, I haven't seen the Left button board or the Right button board available for purchase from Ifixit just yet. I just took apart my deck having ordered a left bumper replacement set thinking this would fix my issue, it will not. The issue is the switch itself that is attached to the Left Button Board
Just an fyi for those who need the tactile button replaced on the control board and not the button. You can order Nintendo switch joycon replacement buttons, and use them. You have to be pretty good at micro soldering to make it work. If you have questions, I might reply. I'm also thinking about offering my soldering as a service if any of you can't get it working. lmk
I bought a used Steam Deck and noticed that the left bumper only works if I press it on the top, but not when I press it at the left side. There is no click and the press is not recognized. Can you tell me if the button or the board/micro switch is probably broken?
Michael, it's hard to tell without disassembly. The bumper buttons can stick since they're so wide—and since you purchased it used, it could just be dirty.
Same exact thing with me. I barely used mine but have had it since week 1. I bought and replaced the assembly and button and still did not fix issue so I'm a bit lost with it.
chris G -
same here,problem is not solved after replacing L1
Hi! i know this is a very old thread, but i have the exact same problem with mine. did you ever have a fix for it? or did you know what the problem was?
I have the problem that my microswitch broke and I can't find the replacement board (DAF7ATH16F0 Rev F)
do you know where it can be found?
Followed this tutorial and now my left bumper is working again. Turns out I snapped the small plastic piece (dangling down on the 3rd picture in step 23).
Happy that a $7 part could fix my $500 Steam Deck.
